Today, we’re digging into the nitty gritty of goat deworming—why fecal testing matters, where natural methods help, and why it’s crucial to bring out the big guns when a real outbreak hits.
Understanding Parasites in Goats
Internal parasites, especially barber pole worms (Haemonchus contortus), are a common threat to goats. These little guys latch onto the lining of the goat’s stomach and suck blood—causing anemia, weight loss, bottle jaw, and even death if left untreated.
Other parasites like coccidia (especially in kids), tapeworms, and lungworms can also cause issues, though barber pole worms tend to be the most dangerous in adult goats.
Why “Routine Deworming” Doesn’t Work Anymore
It used to be common practice to deworm all your animals every few months, just in case. But here’s the problem: that strategy led to dewormer resistance—where parasites evolve to survive the very medications meant to kill them. Once that happens, even the strongest chemical dewormers can fail.
So the new standard in goat care is targeted deworming—only treating animals that actually need it. And the only way to know for sure? Fecal testing.
Fecal Testing – Your Secret Weapon
Fecal testing (or a fecal egg count) is the process of examining a sample of your goat’s poop under a microscope to see what kind of parasite eggs are present and how many.
You’ve got two main options here:
- Have your vet run a fecal – This is the most reliable option and will give you a clear egg count per gram (EPG).
- Do your own fecals at home – With a simple microscope kit, you can learn to do this yourself. It’s not as scary as it sounds and can save a lot of money if you have a larger herd.
This is how we monitor parasite levels on our farm. We don’t treat blindly—we test, assess, and then treat only the animals who truly need it. It’s better for the goats, the dewormers, and your wallet.
When Natural Dewormers Work… and When They Don’t
There’s a lot of talk out there about natural dewormers—things like garlic, pumpkin seeds, herbal blends, and diatomaceous earth. And look, we’re not here to bash them. We actually do use some of these on our own farm as preventive support.
For example:
- We add garlic powder to feed periodically.
- Our goats have access to browse that includes natural worm-repelling plants.
- We keep their environment clean and dry to reduce reinfection.
All of this helps reduce parasite load, which is wonderful for long-term management.
But here’s the truth:
If your goat is already suffering from a heavy parasite load, natural methods are not enough. You need a pharmaceutical dewormer. This is not the time to experiment with pumpkin seeds and prayers.
Treating an Active Infestation
Once you’ve confirmed a high egg count or signs of anemia (like pale eyelids or bottle jaw), it’s time to act fast. And this is where your veterinarian’s guidance is invaluable.
Here’s why:
- Different parasites require different medications.
- Dosage is critical—goats metabolize drugs differently than other livestock.
- Underdosing contributes to resistance and doesn’t kill the worms.
Your vet may recommend products like:
- Valbazen (broad-spectrum, not safe for pregnant does)
- Cydectin (stronger, often used against resistant worms)
- Ivermectin (less effective in some areas due to resistance)
- Toltrazuril or Baycox for coccidia, especially in kids
Don't forget to repeat fecals 10–14 days after treatment to make sure it worked. Sometimes, a second dose is necessary.
Prevention Is Always Better Than Cure
The best way to fight parasites is to keep their numbers low from the start. Here are some practical ways we do this on our farm:
- Rotational grazing – Moving goats to clean pasture frequently gives worm eggs time to die off before goats return.
- Avoid overstocking – Crowded pastures mean more poop, more worm eggs, and more reinfection.
- Elevate hay feeders and water buckets – Keeps poop out and reduces exposure.
- Monitor body condition and eyelid color (FAMACHA scores) – This quick visual check can tell you if anemia is creeping in.
- Do regular fecal checks – Yes, we’re saying it again. It really is that important.
Our Real-Life Deworming Routine
We don’t deworm every goat on a schedule. We:
- Fecal test new arrivals and quarantine them.
- Fecal test our does a few weeks before kidding.
- Check FAMACHA scores monthly (more often in summer).
- Treat only when it’s truly needed—and follow up with a recheck.
It’s a little more work, but it helps protect our herd and our medications from resistance.
Final Thoughts
Goat parasites aren’t something to be feared—but they do demand respect. Good management, regular monitoring, and informed decision-making go a long way toward keeping your herd healthy and your peace of mind intact.
Natural remedies have their place in prevention, and we’re all for using herbs and holistic support. But when you’re facing an active parasite outbreak, don’t gamble with your goat’s life. Listen to your vet, treat effectively, and follow through.
Got a Deworming Story?
Have you ever dealt with a stubborn parasite problem in your goats? Found a natural routine that works for prevention? Drop your tips or questions in the comments—we love hearing how other goat keepers manage the worm wars!
